After a long decade of tweezered morsels and polite arguments about the last croquette, one enormous dish in the middle of the table has come back into fashion.
What to order
Start with the bread, which arrives warm and slightly burnt in exactly the right places, and do not let anyone at the table talk you out of a second basket. The butter is cultured in-house and has the faint, pleasant funk of something made by a person with strong opinions.
Nobody has ever felt held by a single scallop.
The room and the service
The kitchen is small enough that you can hear the chef swearing gently at the grill, and the menu has shrunk accordingly: six plates, two puddings, and whatever turned up at the back door that morning. It is the most confident kind of cooking, the kind that has stopped trying to impress you.
The bill
Service manages that rare trick of being attentive without hovering. Your water glass fills itself; nobody asks if you are enjoying the concept. The wine list is one sheet of paper, mostly under forty pounds, and the staff will happily pour you a taste of anything open.
Dinner for two with wine came to a little under ninety pounds, which feels almost impolite given the care involved. Book a week ahead for weekends, or try your luck at the counter on a Tuesday, when the regulars will tell you what you should have ordered.
