After twenty years of absolute dominance, sneakers are suddenly under pressure from a very old rival: the loafer, ideally a bit scuffed, preferably with a story.
The look
The look has less to do with what is new than with how it has been worn: sleeves pushed up, collars a bit lived-in, nothing ironed with much conviction. It suggests somebody who owns a few good things and has stopped worrying about them, which has always been the point of style.
Good leather is just the courage to polish something.
On the street
Resale has moved from niche to mainstream with startling speed. Second-hand clothing now accounts for a meaningful share of what younger shoppers buy, and many established labels have launched their own vintage programmes, a thing that would have been unthinkable a decade ago.
How to wear it
Tailors and menders are busier than they have been in years. A good alteration costs a fraction of a new purchase and can transform a charity-shop jacket into something that seems custom-made. The modern luxury may simply be clothes that fit, repaired by someone who knows your name.
Start with what you already own, and add just a single thing this season: a heavy overcoat, a good pair of boots, or a scarf that is far too long. Wear it for a while before you judge it. Style, like most things, is largely a matter of repetition and nerve.
